A bevy of food on Barton

Hamilton’s longest street has a deep and rich history and is enjoying a resurgence as a diverse dining district.

Is Barton Street part of the tapestry of your life? Was it ever? I was married on Barton, shopped on Barton, family members worked (and ate lunch) on Barton, rode the Barton bus, and favourite birthday cakes were purchased on Barton. Oh, and there was the circus and hockey.

The street’s origins date back to the early 1800s when it was the main road in Barton Township, which later became part of Hamilton. Stretching from Locke Street to Fifty Road, the 21-kilometre span makes it the longest street in Hamilton. With such a deep history, it’s no surprise that things have come and gone. Readers of a certain age may remember the Barton Street Arena (aka The Forum), which was the site for hockey and other events before being overshadowed by Copps Coliseum. The Centre Mall was built on the site of the Hamilton Jockey Club Racetrack. There was a time when almost every family would have purchased something from Kenesky Sports & Cycle.

As a social hub for the city's industrial working class, a noteworthy boom period for Barton Street was the early 1960s. The Hamilton Spectator’s Steve Buist describes the section from Wellington to Ottawa streets as “the meatiest … an economic engine for the city, a sturdy backbone of business, a commercial heart that helped keep Hamilton healthy.”

The opening of malls, super centres, an increased use of cars, and suburban sprawl are only a few of the reasons cited for the shift in the street’s status. Its history is undeniably one of a rocky road, but many households and businesses are embracing Barton Street neighbourhoods again – fighting and changing negative stereotypes. 

Admittedly, while there are boarded-up windows interspersed with gentrified storefronts, our focus is on a few Barton Street “food gems.” Nowhere else in Hamilton have I encountered such a cluster of creative, intrepid entrepreneurs with the fortitude and determination that community building demands.

The intersection of James and Barton has seen some recent closures, but rumours about a possible jazz club being opened by The Other Bird promise to add to that neighbourhood’s energy.

Comma Café

301 Barton St. E.
IG: comma_lots_more_

Some blocks away, there’s no shortage of energy at Comma Café. Reservations are advised for this year-old thriving, tastefully renovated space, steps away from the General Hospital. The talented trio of Stacey Chang, Phoebe Kuo and Alice Shih – each with impressive culinary CVs – is behind the café’s food and beverage wizardry. Open early and closing at 3 p.m., they deliver an eclectic breakfast/brunch menu that includes classics, bennies, sandwiches and Hong Kong-style French toast. Their beverages are unique, delicious and satisfying. With top marks for service, they take time to describe menu specialties. Their future may include an expansion to Burlington.

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J. Waldron Butcher

305 Barton St. E.
jwaldronbutchers.com
IG: j.waldron_butchers

The days of walking through an alley to a modified garage to find Jamie Waldron’s Butcher shop are gone, replaced in July 2024 with a lovely storefront. Waldron’s website details his decades of experience (including authoring a butchering handbook), leaving no doubt about his expertise and values – sustainability, quality, and community – in his work with small-scale Ontario farmers.

Marking his fifth anniversary, the enterprise has evolved to include sales of prepared foods including sausages, meat pies, terrines, chicken wings, butter chicken, chili, bourguignon, braised lamb shanks, and meatballs in sauce. Butchery workshops are also available. Says Waldron: “Location-wise, we are proud to be part of the Barton Village community with all of the other small businesses and the people who live and/or work here … my experience on this street has been nothing short of positive.”

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Verlan

304 Barton St. E.
verlan.ca
IG: creperieverlan

Verlan has links to Bronte’s now closed La Parisienne, which was founded by the parents of Mikael Colas. He continued the hospitality adventure with his partner Courtney Colas. Once in Hamilton, Courtney became the main player, soon joined by her mother, Trish Davies from Australia. Davies now runs the show, with Courtney running Bistro Réunion – her dream project – near Morriston. Crêperie Verlan offers a unique French-Australian fusion, featuring signature crêpes and toasties – panini-like sandwiches – a nod to Aussie café culture. Charm is the best word to describe the indoor and patio spaces. The wee marché tempts you to shop before heading home.

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ElderCamp

340 Barton St. E.
eldercamp.ca
IG: eldercamp.ca

In a space that 1911 city plans show as a Chinese laundry, Kathryn Dieroff opened ElderCamp, which had its previous chapter at the Hamilton Farmers’ Market. The move to Barton brings her full-circle back to the area where her grandparents once lived. The skilled Dieroff left 20 years of goldsmithing to embrace food. The stars at the new location are the delicious pretzels. They are made fresh daily in various flavours and served with several dips. Pretzels sandwiches are creative and part of the brunch menu that includes Bennies on cornbread, sourdough potato loaf French toast, and a "Brotzeit" (bread time) plate that features a pretzel, dip, pickled egg, pickles, cheese, and fresh fruits and vegetables. The new location enables Dieroff to focus on the fermenting, pickling and preserving parts of the business – including house-fermented yogurt. Top off a visit with a beverage made from one of the house-made syrups!

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Maisy’s Pearl Oyster Bar 

342 Barton St. E.
maisyspearl.com
IG: maisyspearl

David Burns could be called an oyster sommelier who talks about “meroir,” not terroir. Learning his craft at Rodney’s in Toronto, he reckons he’s shucked seven million oysters, winning countless accolades and competitions along the way. (Burns shares his skill via shucking classes.) More important than that skill is his deep knowledge of oysters and seafood, after travelling extensively seeking quality products and befriending farmers who share his passion. Maisy’s Pearl – named after his daughters – opened in fall 2023, five years after he and his wife Brooke moved to Hamilton. Fresh oysters share the spotlight with a full coastal seafood menu with vegan options, all made from scratch. The intimate (largely bar) space is packed every night, with diners enjoying Burns’s skills and stories. Burns says he likes the grit of the neighbourhood and “every single night my heart is just exploding with joy” because of the vibe and patron interactions. 

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Crumbled

339 Barton St. E.
crumbled.ca
IG: crumbledhamilton

Angela Laurenciano – a food artist and chocolatier – and her husband Matthew Ridley, are the new owners of this unique dessert shop that was established in 2018. Being a resident of Barton Village and a talented food artist who has always wanted her own shop, it was an easy decision to purchase the business. Crumbled cake bowls layer crumbled sponge cake with icing and toppings. Added to this classic offering are now cleverly designed cake pops sold individually or as part of a cake-pop-fruit-chocolate edible display. Laurenciano has added 16 flavours of Kawartha Dairy ice cream and milkshakes to the menu and has leveraged her creativity to offer beautiful custom cakes. 

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Wildcat Tavern 

353 Barton St. E.
wildcathamilton.com
IG: wildcat.hamont

Wildcat has become known as the pre-eminent spot for hot dogs in the city and readers of a certain age may rush to visit once they know how they are made. Wildcat uses a vintage Dogeroo rotisserie, often mesmerizing patrons as it rotates and cooks the 10-inch dogs – though the snack menu offers even more. This inviting neighbourhood watering hole is run by a couple who live in the neighbourhood – Jenna Firsht and Ian Leipurts. They offer a range of beverages and strive to keep prices fair, welcoming folks from all walks of life. It’s been described as one of the most friendly bars in the city. Their motto? “We pride ourselves on warm service, cold beer, and no pretensions.”

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Barton Salumeria Charcuterie & Cheese 

357 Barton St. E.
bartonsalumeria.com
IG: bartonsalumeria

For Eric Muller and his wife Ikuko Matsumoto, their passion project for curing meats quickly gained a loyal following among friends and family. Supporting local farms and producers, their house-cured meats are made from locally raised Berkshire pork, prized for its marbling and deep flavour. Combine that with expertly curated cheese and beverage selections and enticing snacking plates and you get Salumeria. A warm, intimate setting invites you to dine in from a seasonally changing menu or order charcuterie boards or stunning “grazing tables” for larger events. Service is attentive. They are pleased “to be part of Barton’s growing reputation as a hub for great food and drink.”

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Motel Restaurant 

359 Barton St. E.
motelrestaurant.com
IG: motelrestaurant

Motel is a veteran of the latest Barton Street resurgence, celebrating its eighth anniversary in June. Offering a decadent brunch from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., reservations are advised. Expect decadence in a space with a fun Miami Beach vibe. The signature dish is Champagne pancakes with Devonshire cream, raspberry coulis and real gold flakes towering above the plate. Also popular is Je Suis Bleu – hotcakes with blueberry compote and Chantilly whipped cream. I Am Vegan delivers a hearty salad with Brussels sprouts, sweet potatoes and pomegranates. Motel’s cocktails pair well with the menu and the summer patio is worth a visit.

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Barton Lettuce 

337 Barton St. E.
bartonlettuce.com
IG: bartonlettuce

Since May 2021, Alexandra and Matt Sinclair run the kind of small independent grocery store that every neighbourhood envies. They offer high-quality produce and groceries at affordable prices and support local farmers and producers. To your shopping basket, you can add coffee, fresh bread, baked goods, cheese, dairy products, and vegetarian food. Top it all off with plants, cut flowers and seasonal gift baskets. No surprise that they received the top rating (diamond) in the Hamilton Spectator’s 2024 Readers’ Choice category for best fresh produce. The Sinclairs believe that everyone should have access to fresh food and a welcoming shopping experience.

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Dawson’s Hot Sauce 

435 Barton St. E.
dawsonshotsauce.com
IG: dawsonshotsauce|
sweetheartssyrup.com
IG: sweetheartssyrup

Brodie Dawson launched his hot sauce enterprise in 2013 and, partnering with his father Bruce, moved the retail and wholesale business to a Barton Street storefront in late 2020. Being featured more than once on YouTube’s Hot Ones, which features celebrity hot sauce tastings, has yielded international attention. The thriving business released six new sauces last year alone and the Barton location now has a small manufacturing space. With Brodie Dawson’s partner Vanessa Robak, they started a simple syrup company called Sweethearts Syrup Co., with products available at the Barton shop. They offer creative flavour combos for use in spirited/non-spirited cocktails. You can find Dawson’s sauce in all Loblaws stores, but it doesn’t beat a visit to Barton.

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Mosaic Neighbourhood Bar 

431 Barton St. E.
mosaichamilton.ca
IG: mosaichamilton

Mosaic describes itself as the kind of casual place where everyone feels like a regular – whether it’s the first or 50th visit. Fourteen rotating craft beers, cocktails and mocktails can be enjoyed with shareables including the crowd favourite charcuterie boards and warm pretzels with cheese dip. “Laid back” is paired with “lively” with events including weekly trivia, karaoke, open mic nights and beer tastings. In their words: “No fuss, no frills—just good times, great drinks, and a space where everyone’s welcome.”

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Hamilton Prop House 

422 Barton St. E.
hamiltonprophouse.com
IG: hamiltonprophouse

Simon Winterson, CEO of Digital Canaries Film Studios has a “glass is always full” philosophy – full of creative ideas for Prop House. The exterior offers no clue that the indoor space is filled with countless props and set pieces. Since July 2024, they’ve been artfully arranged to create spaces (which they call cine-minis) where you can enjoy coffee, cocktails/mocktails and snacks. It’s ideal for individuals, couples or groups to work or socialize and for creatives or entrepreneurs to collaborate. Winterson’s guided tour comes with delightful stories about prop sources – from productions such as The Handmaid’s Tale or Netflix’s Drink Masters. Most mind-blowing is the train car filled with authentic seating and luggage. Prop House is also used as an event space for live performances, games nights, filming and even cocktail classes. Winterson’s goal is to create a place of inspiration and discovery.

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541 Eatery & Exchange

541 Barton St. E.
fivefortyone.ca
IG: 541barton

541 is a non-profit café working with mostly volunteers to support its local community. Known in part for its “pay it forward” button jar, patron contributions ensure that all visitors can enjoy affordable breakfast, lunch, treats, and beverages. Ask about the catering service. 

Nanny & Bulls

627 Barton St. E.
nannyandbulls.ca
IG: nannyandbulls

Drinks, snacks and good times in a warm, nostalgic, casual neighbourhood haunt. That’s what you’re promised by partners Brad Richards, his brother Jeff Richards and his wife Lexi McKenna – the latter two being the faces you’ll see most often. Named after the owners’ grandparents, no surprise that they’ve aimed for a mid-century vibe including a “rumpus room” for small groups. “We're so happy that the community is as excited as we are!” and that welcome is mirrored in their promotion of their neighbours. They suggest dining at Maipai, taking in a feature at the renovated Playhouse Cinema and winding down at Nanny’s. Their goal? “Just a nice place for nice folks.”

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Maipai Tiki Bar

631 Barton St. E.
maipai.ca
IG: maipaitiki

The pizza that is at the core of this eatery has won countless awards – local and international. Salar Madadi’s food journey has involved a food cart, a tent, a food truck, and poke joint Pokeh before he settled on pizza, wings, salads and a Tiki bar. Maipai turns out fabulous Detroit-style pizzas – square, with thick crusts and lacey, crispy cheesy edges that they call a cheese crown. Vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and halal options are on offer. Like the tropical Tiki ambiance, the beverage menu is also an attraction. The choice of rums is like a world tour. Non-alcoholic cocktail/drink options have expanded. The net result is that Maipai is routinely booked weeks in advance so reservations are a must. Check out the merch, which includes T-shirts and Tiki mugs if there are none in your mom’s basement.

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Hotties Smashburgers 

657 Barton St. E.
hottiessmashburgers.com
IG: hotties.smashburgers

Hotties opened in 2023, but assuming it was hot/spicy foods, I never visited. Not so. Despite the use of “flame” icons, the spiciest thing on the menu is the optional jalapeno sauce. “Hot” hints at the warm welcome and atmosphere. Coming from a hospitality family, Ted Taras and his wife Maui began with pop-up eateries before settling in Hamilton. The burgers are literally smashed on a very hot flat-top resulting in a delicious lacy, flavourful skirt around the edges. Impossible brand burgers and award-winning beef franks served on Martin’s potato rolls are also available. Don’t be surprised if you bump into Ticat players.

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Wingporium at the Prince Eddy

737 Barton St. E.
wingporium.ca/sports-bar-hamilton
IG: wingporiumhamilton

Opened in the renovated 1934 Prince Edward Tavern, Wingporium has become a casual neighbourhood sports bar popular on game days. The wings can be dry, dusted or non-dusted, with sauce on the side, or sauced and grilled. The brand offers a creative list of 88 sauces grouped as mild, hot, or suicide. Daily features and sides, salads, tacos, handhelds and burgers add to the options.

Karlik Pastry 

762 Barton St. E.
IG: karlikpastrybakery

About a decade ago, Luba and Boris Mudrak took over Karlik’s European-style bakery (established in the 1950s) and continued producing the same products with the same recipes – plus some additions from their Ukrainian/Eastern European customs. You may have purchased their baked goods at a local deli or the Hamilton Farmers’ Market, but a visit to their Barton storefront offers the maximum experience. Their baked goods are made fresh and include special occasion platters and seasonal traditional sweets. In my home, their Dobos torte is a family staple. Luba says: “Everything we do is with passion and love.” No doubt about that.

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The Purple Pear

946 Barton St. E.
thepurplepear.ca

This upscale, yet casual French-inspired restaurant was founded in 1994 in what was once Hamilton's first steakhouse, Martin's Steakhouse. Now this city staple is a place to mark special occasions and romantic date nights for many Hamiltonians. With classics such as French onion en croute, escargot, and baked camembert as starters, mains include New York strip steak, calves liver, Supreme of chicken, and rack of lamb, alongside curries and pastas.

Barton Village BIA

bartonvillage.ca
IG: barton_village

Barton Village is only one segment of Barton Street, but it does have a BIA (business improvement area) headed by Nadine Ubl. She sees her district making a comeback and believes that there are eateries acting like beacons, bringing people to the area to “re-fall” in love with the city’s North End and with Barton. The Barton Village Festival on June 14 is a good start.

On the longest street in Hamilton, here are examples of more eateries offering a diversity of cuisines. Pizzas (Blondies, Dimantino’s); Indian (Gully’s); Korean (Bab’s); Filipino (Iskooink); Lebanese (La Luna); Portuguese (Duarte’s, O Cantinho, Grasshopper); Vietnamese (Mothers); Jamaican/Caribbean (True to Roots; 1-876 Bar and Grill; Mummy’s); Bars (The District Tapas, Fragoso). 

MORE TO DISCOVER ON BARTON

On the longest street in Hamilton, there are many more eateries offering a diversity of cuisines.

1-876 Bar and Grill

306 Barton St. E.
IG: 1876barandgrill

Bab Korean

387 Barton St. E.
IG: babkorearestaurant

Blondie’s Pizza

10 Barton St. E.
hamilton.blondiespizza.ca
IG: blondies_pizza

Dimantino’s Pizza

341 Barton St. E.

Duartes Supermarket

417 Barton St. E.
IG: filomenasousaduarte

Fragoso Sports Bar

293 Barton St. E.

Fresh Pizza

524 Barton St. E.
freshpizzahamilton.ca
IG: freshpizza.wings

Iskooink Chicharon

274 Barton St. E.
IG: iskooink_

La Luna Express

281 Barton St. E.
lalunarestaurants.ca/express
IG: lalunaexpress

Lava Pizza

387 Barton St. E.
lavapizza.hotnfresh.ca

Le Bella Pizza

455 Barton St. E.
lebellapizza.ca
IG: bellapizzahamilton

Mummy’s Afro Caribbean Kitchen

746 Barton St. E.
IG: mummysafrocarib

O Cantinho Churrasqueira Cafe

302 Barton St. E.
ocantinhochurrasqueira.ca
IG: ocantinhochurrasqueiracafe

Staropolskie Delikatesy

711 Barton St. E.

The District Tapas + Bar

61 Barton St. E.
districttapasbar.com
IG: districttapasbarhamilton

The Gully Café 

29 Barton St. E.
IG: thegullycafehamilton

The Little Grasshopper Café

37 Barton St. E.
thelittlegrasshopper.com
IG: thelittlegrasshoppercafe

The Purple Pear

946 Barton St. E.
thepurplepear.ca

True to Roots

362 Barton St. E.
IG: true_to_roots_jamaican