Claudio Aprile is chef of the world
Renowned Canadian chef has translated his upbringing in Uruguay, his Italian heritage and his travels far and wide into his own food journey.
If, as Julia Child says, “people who love to eat are always the best people,” what can we say about the talented people who prepare that food? Would “stellar” be an apt descriptor? In this case, the answer is a resounding yes. Local diners have a “star” among them. Celebrated chef Claudio Aprile has migrated westward from Toronto to become a force behind eateries in Mississauga and Burlington. He believes that preparing food for others communicates joy, nurturing, connection and even love – a great match for people who love to eat.
Aprile’s story has a not uncommon beginning – a chef inspired by hours at the side of his grandmother and mother in their kitchen which was, he asserts, the most exciting place in the home, especially for a youngster. That kitchen, where everything was made from scratch and sometimes on an open fire, was in Uruguay and was influenced by his Italian roots. While noting that his great-great-grandfather was Indigenous (Charrúa), Italian influences were inescapable in this country, which has one of the largest Italian populations outside of Italy.
Uruguay experienced waves of colonialism resulting in a diverse cuisine. “It was a very multicultural place and I definitely embraced that in my life … I find Uruguayan cuisine is a hybrid of European and South American cuisines all colliding together to create something really beautiful … with a focus on pasta, potatoes and meat.
Decisive at an early age, Aprile relates his mother’s story. “She tells me that when I was just five years old I told her that one day I would become a chef. Not that I wanted to be one, but that I would be one.” So began an apprenticeship leading to a 30-year plus career, learning from any/all who cooked and in many countries.
Once his family immigrated to Canada, his first “food job” was at age 14, filling donuts with jelly, which he judged to be a dream job. He lost that job after experimenting with over-filling the donut. He was fired for breaking a rule, which was the catalyst for his pondering of “food rules” and recipes. He resolved to carve his own path.
Aprile’s career took its first international turn when at age 18 he made what he describes as one of his most memorable and important decisions: to accompany a workmate to Europe. He sold his motorcycle and worked two jobs to save money for his backpack and expenses, which assuredly included food. In 17 countries and 160 cities, he experienced new foods firsthand.
“I fell in love with food, no matter where it came from. I just thought it all told a story about the people, the culture and the place.”
Aprile says a month-long stint in Turkey “blew my mind … the history and food with many layers and incredible flavours… I think Turkish food is going to become the next big food in North America.” Living in London for several years, he encountered a consequential inspiration, namely Thai cuisine, winning raves for his work. In their review of Bali Sugar (now closed), which served authentic Southeast Asian cuisine, the GAYOT Guide gave high praise specifically to Aprile. “Other restaurants in London offer ‘fusion’ cooking with greater or lesser success; here you get the real thing … flavours and combinations work powerfully together and many other chefs could learn some good lessons here in what is possible.”
Says Aprile, “I will never forget my first visit to Thailand in 1998. That trip for me was transformative and revelatory. I’ve never experienced the bewilderment and mystery in any other cuisine. Every dish stopped every conversation. Magic.” He continues his fascination with Thai cuisine via his connection with Toronto’s award-winning chef Nuit Regular, with whom he has travelled and whom he judges to be one of the most dynamic chefs in the country right now.
He took advantage of opportunities to work (paid or unpaid) in a long list of famous kitchens, including some with Michelin stars. Working in the kitchens of the likes of Marco Pierre White in London, Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli in Spain and Grant Achatz’s Alinea in Chicago shaped his craft, though he maintains a deep respect for learning from elders, be that a renowned chef or a skilled grandmother.
Once asked by RestoBiz which chef had influenced him the most, Aprile replied: “I’ve been so lucky to have the fortune to work with so many talented chefs throughout my career. The one chef that has made the most profound impact on me is Mark McEwan.” When bringing him on board at Toronto’s (now closed) North 44, McEwan recalls Aprile as a keen learner and today describes him as a “good friend, an exceptional chef and very, very talented.”
For Aprile, “travel has been my education in every way” and seeds that were planted along this journey took root as one of Aprile’s central goals: to understand different cultures, cook different foods and interpret them in his own way. He pursued this goal in several Toronto restaurants as executive chef (and often owner/partner.
Senses (now closed) in the Soho Metropolitan Hotel was celebrated and Colborne Lane (now closed) was highly acclaimed and award-winning, named in 2007’s top 10 new restaurants by En Route Magazine, and in 2008 as one of the top new restaurants in Toronto. Food & Wine Magazine and Condé Nast Traveler described Colborne Lane’s modernist cuisine as exciting. Aprile is among the select group of chefs who have been invited to the James Beard Awards in New York City.
Closest to his heart is his restaurant Origin, a now-closed urban tapas restaurant with European and Asian influences, that was once voted the No. 1 restaurant in Toronto by Toronto Life and Now. Aprile admits giving thought to rejuvenating Origin, which he feels was a strong brand.
Aprile has moved west of Toronto with his family and is now culinary director at DiMario’s in Burlington and Via Allegro in Etobicoke. Both restaurants focus on Italian cuisine, with Via Allegro being more upscale. As someone who follows the local restaurant scene, I have visited DiMario’s. When it transitioned to new ownership a few years ago, renewal of the kitchen team was led by Aprile. The renovated space at DiMario’s provides a sophisticated, yet casual, ambiance for exceptional dining. The Italian influence is evident and clever twists take flavour experiences over the top. The Aperitivo Tower is an ingenious presentation of impressive appetizers such as classic arancini or the unique fig and ricotta crostini. Pastas are flawless, as are mains – the chicken piccata being a signature dish. Plating and presentation reliably trigger anticipation. The desserts are sumptuous and artful. The talented kitchen reflects a full range of skills and creativity and Aprile stresses they work as a team. He generously credits the delicious cassoulet I enjoyed to executive chef Jack Lloyd and sings the praises of Alina Fedina for the spectacular orange dessert that opens to reveal a wave of Aperol and candied citrus.
Wondering what graces Aprile’s table at home? He says it is sometimes boring, and often a simple, fast meal that – he says with a chuckle – might involve a blender. Shortly before his Origin restaurant closed, Toronto Life chronicled what Aprile ate in a week. While it included lemon/ginger water, yogurt, avocado and oats, there was ethnic diversity in his meals. A few desserts snuck in as well. Describing food as medicine, nutritious food is central to his healthy lifestyle, which is important to a way of life that is diversifying.
Aprile points out that, up until about 10 years ago, the entirety of his experience was in kitchens. Being asked to join the judging team on CTV's culinary competition Master Chef Canada in 2014 felt like winning a lottery. He rates it as an incredible learning experience which – even as a judge - made him a better chef. That series ended in 2021, but Aprile can still be seen on other shows such as the Dairy Farmers of Ontario's Milk Masters, his own Instagram reels and community-building and charitable events.
As a recent contributor to Best Side magazine, his engaging writing is not especially focused on food but on interesting people from a variety of professions. His keen interest in music is reflected in one of the many curated highlights on his Instagram account and frequently appears in his writing – for example Oakville’s music venue, Moonshine Café and his profile of Alan Cross, known in part for his long-standing radio program The Ongoing History of Music.
Aprile had his own “fan moment” interviewing George Stroumboulopoulos whom he’s admired since Strombo’s days on Much Music. Aprile says he is drawn to anything creative and finds happiness in engaging in new experiences. Currently, he is considering other projects, shows and perhaps a podcast.
He stresses that his main focus is his role as culinary director and honing leadership skills that enable him to share insights that have come with his experience. As with many people in the hospitality business, the pandemic and restaurant closures occasioned time to pause, ponder, step off the roller coaster and often reset. Like many chefs, Aprile filled that void by questioning “the old model” – 12-hour days in the kitchen, working six to seven days per week, three hours commuting, late hours, eating late, and not exercising.
“Chefs want to produce great food in a great environment but also want a life. The old model is not sustainable … Breaking the cycle is key to achieving your full potential as a leader.”
Success at DiMario’s, he says, has not been an accident. By design, it’s been collaboration, community and family. Together, the whole becomes greater than the sum of its parts and serves as a neighbourhood restaurant and community hub.
“I know how to cook but I’m still learning a lot about leadership. It’s rewarding to see the teams excel the way they have. It gives me … a lot of joy.” In contrast to the first season of TV’s The Bear, which portrays intense, almost palpable stress, conflict and tension in a Chicago restaurant’s kitchen – something that had been not uncommon in restaurants – Aprile believes human capital thrives when given access to what he calls kindness capital. He sees kitchen leadership evolving to a more gentle approach, treating people with compassion and patience. A restaurant exists to take care of guests, but to do that the team providing the hospitality must work in a hospitable environment. He must be doing something right given that staff turnover is negligible.
With a decades-long and rich career, Aprile has a positive view of the future of the restaurant business and food culture, with a tremendous amount of young talent emerging. He views the culinary profession “as a rare occupation where you get to experience so many different fundamentals in life,” and says “I think it’s the most incredible, exciting career that one can have. I don’t think there’s any other career like it.”
If people who love to eat also love stories, Aprile can deliver. He believes food tells stories, embodies emotions and is a multimedia experience. Appearing on CBC’s The Nature of Things with David Suzuki in an episode that explored the senses of smell and taste, Aprile says: “If you asked me what my tools are I’d have to say it’s my nose and my tongue – not my knife. My goal is to leave an impression with people; something visceral. Something that transports you.” Flavour is most important but food has texture and sounds and a visual aesthetic – even when rustic. People who love to eat are in good hands with Claudio Aprile in the kitchen.
