The Iron Cow brings something that’s been missing to downtown
Part elevated British pub, and part sports bar, Matty Matheson-led eatery delivers with a creative and well-executed menu in a welcoming space.
Holy Cow!
There is a new restaurant in town, part of the recently renovated and reopened TD Coliseum complex.
My dining experience as a media guest on opening night at The Iron Cow Public House leaves me with nothing but accolades. The Our House Hospitality Company (OHHC) has delivered a restaurant that fills a gap in the local dining scene. A principal in the company is celebrated chef Matty Matheson whose restaurants include Prime Seafood Palace (Toronto) and Rizzo’s House of Parm (Crystal Beach). Matty’s Patty’s Burgers and Rizzo’s Chicken Parm Sandwiches are on offer at the Coliseum concessions. Matheson’s values, creativity, passion and energy are evident at every turn – and with every bite.
The venue at 101 York Boulevard is welcoming with cozy spaces and nooks – booths, tables and bar stools. A private dining room is available adjacent to The CAF – a room with its own bar, darts and pool table. A bit of a sports bar vibe is reflected in scattered TV screens, but on the whole, the spaces cleverly match various dining moods. The British pub vibe is perfectly captured in the décor, which will amuse and interest guests. Sports memorabilia is next to nostalgic knick-knacks that fit into the category of “stuff from my parents’ rec room.” There is the requisite framed spoon collection and – no surprise – there are quite a few cow pictures.

The stage is set for reasonably priced dining from an inventive menu designed by Matheson and chef Coulson Armstrong, culinary director of OHHC. A week before The Iron Cow’s opening, Armstrong won Top Chef Canada. While acknowledging his talented competitors, Armstrong’s CV is impressive, including leadership roles at Canoe (Toronto) before joining Matheson in 2018. He once took a three-year sabbatical visiting 16 countries (including Nepal, India, Southeast Asia, Australia, New Zealand, Costa Rica, California, and Copenhagen) working, learning and honing his craft. What he brings to The Iron Cow is top-quality dining with a menu that is unpretentious and reflects the varied crowds expected at the different Coliseum events.
Iron Cow’s menu items are generously portioned, making them suitable for individual consumption or as family-style shareables. (It’s worth mentioning that “family” ranks high on their values and there is a children’s menu.)
Appetizers include some nods to British pubs, such as the Ploughman’s Plate (assorted meats, cheeses and accoutrements). The Welsh rarebit (ale-cheddar sauce on local Dear Grain sourdough) was a treat and a dish seldom-seen on menus. Brits would not be surprised to see butter chicken dip, and Armstrong says butter chicken is also popular in Canada. Enjoyed with garlic naan and mango chutney, it leaves a warm mouth-feel. Smoked trout melts in your mouth and is enhanced with horseradish cream and watercress. The dinner rolls are eye candy and, with salty honey butter, divine.
Still in the “lighter fare” category are a superb shrimp cocktail and two perfect salads. The roasted beet with watercress and walnuts is healthy and delicious. The English green salad is a welcome combo of iceberg and kohlrabi (one of my favourites) with orange-brown butter vinaigrette.
If your idea of pub food is wings, fear not, because they are here – spicy dry rub, Buffalo or BBQ – all flawlessly prepared. Satisfy your sandwich craving with a roasted beef dip. Pasta is currently duck ragu gnocchi garnished with crispy duck skin. “Currently” does not suggest that menu changes are afoot. The menu was extensively tested, but it is not unusual for a new eatery to tweak their offerings as they aim to satisfy guests.
Pub classics are on offer in the form of Toad in a Hole, shepherd’s pie, and mushroom onion pie – all plated temptingly. The fish and chips are exceptional. Haddock is enveloped in a unique blend of dark ale, vodka, honey, and a mix of triple starches that result in an ultra-crispy fish batter. Served with made-in-house curry sauce and mushy peas brightened with herbs and horseradish, and you have dining heaven.
There are alternative proteins in the form of the roast beef dinner served with Yorkshire pudding and mash and do not take a pass on the maple glazed carrots. Roasted pork, chicken, hanger steak and striploin steak all come with gravy or sauce and mash. There are plans to vary roasts in the weeks to come.
Last, but not least, are the desserts. Choose from sticky toffee pudding, cherry trifle, or the Bananas Foster sundae. The cherry trifle combines house sponge cake, raspberry jam and Chantilly cream, with maraschino cherries, topped with crumbled vanilla cookies. (If you’re thinking – it’s become hard to source “nilla” cookies – they bake their own!) Vanilla soft serve plating is appetizing, and bourbon caramel is put to good use.
Armstrong does not hesitate to commend the team behind the scenes, which includes locals Marco Battaglia (previously at Aberdeen Tavern) as chef de cuisine, and senior sous chef Rory Galbraith, whose stint in Newfoundland included the (now closed) celebrated Raymond’s. That there is talent in the kitchen is an understatement.

A pub needs an impressive drinks program and The Iron Cow delivers. Beers are local and international. Ciders are from Ireland and Freelton’s West Avenue. Non-alcoholic beer options include Bellwoods. Wines are from Tawse Winery in Vineland and Leaning Post in Stoney Creek. Choose from several martinis and cocktails that include classics with a twist, as well as non-alcoholic. Top-selling cocktails so far have been Jalapeño Diablo and the house old fashioned.
The Our House brand envisions eateries as gathering places where families, friends, co-workers and neighbours come to enjoy, celebrate and experience hospitality.
Here’s how The Iron Cow Public House introduces itself: “Born in the heart of Hamilton, The Iron Cow Public House pays homage to classic English pub fare – celebrating hearty roasted meats, timeless British staples, and a steadfast commitment to quality. More than just a dining destination, The Iron Cow is a place where food, community, and good times converge for visitors and locals alike. Whether you’re popping in for a bountiful meal, a casual pint, or a bite before the big event, The Iron Cow stays true to its North Star: a public house for the people.”
Asked about the name, Armstrong says that “it just came out of Matty’s brain” and stuck. So much for my internet research that suggested it was a cowboy lasso practice tool. Then again, the internet pointed out that “cows” are a symbol of nourishment, generosity and life-giving qualities. Steel City’s The Iron Cow promises that and more. Truly a public house for the people.
The Iron Cow Public House is steps away from the TD Coliseum and if you have tickets for an event you don’t even need to go outside to access the venue. The restaurant will be open whether or not there is an event at the coliseum. Hours are Tuesday to Thursday, and Sunday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m; Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to 12 p.m.; open on Monday when there is a scheduled TD Coliseum event.








