Dining districts: It takes a village
Ancaster has a lot going for it, including some great places to eat and shop for food in its most historic neighbourhood. This is part of an ongoing series looking at the local array of dining districts.
Founded as a town in 1793, Ancaster has a rich history and became part of the new City of Hamilton in 2002 when the five neighbouring municipalities were amalgamated. Formalities aside, for many it remains “Ancaster.”
By 1823, Ancaster was Upper Canada's largest industrial and commercial centre and the town boasted the second-largest population in Upper Canada (1,681), behind only Kingston. In addition to its heritage, Ancaster is now known for its natural amenities, beautiful homes and the gorgeous Hamilton Golf and Country Club, which has hosted five Canadian Opens, including this year.
The Ancaster Village Business Improvement Area (BIA) supports the oldest neighbourhood in Ancaster. Its website declares it to be “one of the most unique districts in Canada… (with) modern amenities combined with a remarkable history and historic buildings.” I confess I’ve had little personal history with Ancaster. Heather Peter, the BIA’s executive director, acknowledges that, with the attractions of the local super centres, the Village seems, at times, to be overlooked as a dining destination. Getting more eyes on the Village’s restaurants and businesses is a goal.
My earliest experience with Wilson Street – the Village’s main thoroughfare – was attending an event at the Mount Mary Retreat Centre (which still exists). It included a lunch made by the nuns and I was smitten by their pork chops with apples. I’d never had this before and tried unsuccessfully to replicate the dish. Today, the internet offers more than 7 million such recipes. I’ll try again to make it if I ever finish exploring all the food experiences available in Ancaster Village. Here are just a few.
Ancaster Mill
548 Old Dundas Rd., Ancaster
ancastermill.ca
IG: ancaster_mill
Credit: Ancaster Mill
The Ancaster Mill property boasts two waterfalls, which were central to the operation of a flour mill – the last built in 1863. What remained was brought to life as the Ancaster Mill in 1979 by the Ciancone family, who now oversee Pearle Hospitality.
The natural setting is one of magic and cultured comfort and the backdrop for memorable dining experiences and special events. Ancaster Mill’s weekly programming appeals to a range of diners by offering date-night specials, afternoon teas, Sunday brunch, and iconic Sunday suppers – a three-course menu of chef-curated dishes served family style.
Their food philosophy is noteworthy, featuring harvest-focused cuisine and seasonal ingredients from their Earth to Table farm and Craft Cut butcher.
Coach and Lantern Pub
384 Wilson St. E., Ancaster
coachandlantern.ca
IG: coachandlantern
Visit this pub for great food and a fascinating history. Built in the 1700s, it is the third-oldest building in Ancaster and even lays claim to ghostly encounters. But nothing is ghostly about the contemporary British pub menu.
Fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, curry, toad in the hole, Yorkie and handhelds like the beef dip tempt you alongside Thai food and nachos – and so much more. There is much to commend the menu and seasonal changes offer variety. Watch for kids-eat-free specials and take note of the entertainment lineup. The Upper Coach is a welcoming space for special events and the party menu is extensive.
Olive Board Charcuterie & Wine Bar
220 Wilson St. E., Ancaster
theoliveboard.com
IG: theoliveboardone01
Reserve a table and enjoy a charcuterie board – or do a takeout. Their menu also offers soups, salads, shared plates, flatbreads and handhelds – and desserts. Of course there is wine, beer, cocktails and spirit-free beverages.
Brewers Blackbird Kitchen & Brewery
375 Wilson St. E., Ancaster
brewersblackbird.com
IG: brewersblackbird
Here’s your chance to enjoy beer from brewers who just won a bronze medal for their West Coast Pale Ale at the Canadian Brewing Awards. It’s proudly displayed with a previous silver medal. This team also deserves a medal for resilience in the face of challenges while setting up the microbrewery, which opened in December 2019 and is now a favourite of many.
The décor is charming, with an attractive patio offering shade and sun as well as private rooms for parties and events. The menu (which changes seasonally) has something to please everyone, with a children’s menu as well. One of their most popular items is the wood-oven-fired pizza. Watch for news about a live music program beginning this fall.
Cavallo Nero
370 Wilson St. E., Ancaster
cavallonero.ca
IG: cavalloneroancaster
This casual fine dining restaurant that for over a decade has been a village cornerstone transitioned to new ownership in January under Delaney Davis and Chandler Copperthwaite. For Davis, who grew up in Ancaster, running a family-owned, local business had been a dream and with their extensive hospitality experience, they are thrilled to continue the legacy of the restaurant.
Their menu offers classic Italian food including pizza and seafood all served in pleasant spaces that include an inviting patio. The menu will change seasonally, though some items may become favourite staples. Their gnocchi is made fresh in-house, as well as the sauces and more. They hope to bring back live music in the near future.
Sammy’s Ancaster Family Restaurant
1080 Wilson St. W. #1, Ancaster
IG: sammysancaster
Sammy’s – an Ancaster icon since 1988 – has a large and strong fan base that has survived two transitions. Ownership passed from the founder to the Kaleci family in 2007 and then Sammy’s moved last year from Cameron Street to the Ancaster Supercentre on Wilson. It offers a more spacious setting, often filled.
Sammy's owners say they have stuck to doing breakfast and lunch because it is what they do best. I can attest to the quality of breakfast, having visited often for the best home fries. This is a hands-on family enterprise with everyone pitching in with cooking and service. They say: “We love Ancaster and its people… we hope to be around forever. Our Albanian/Greek heritage is translated in the food, homemade quality, and family-friendly/loving care to make Sammy’s a second home for most.”
India Village
370 Wilson St. E. #13, Ancaster
indiavillage.ca
IG: indiavillageanc
Photo: Diane Galambos
India Village is, in its management’s own words, proud to be serving amazing customers authentic Indian cuisine for over 17 years. Locally sourced fresh ingredients are transformed into fabulous foods that attract many. I’d been told that they are always busy and this was so even on a weekday lunch visit. The daily lunch special is a sight to behold with almost more food than one person can eat as a midday meal. It comes with one meat selection (and there were many choices), one vegetarian selection (again so many vegetarian choices), rice, salad, naan and a dessert. Note the option of joining a cooking class taught by the executive chef to learn how to cook some of their classic meals.
Southcote 53 Tap & Grill
534 Garner Rd. E., Ancaster
southcote53.ca
IG: southcote_53
Southcote 53 describes its menu as striking the perfect balance between comforting classics and elevated favourites with highlights such as calamari, ribs, nachos, wings, sandwiches, fish and chips, ribs, salmon and daily (and seasonal) specials. This is all paired with a selection of 16 draught beers on tap from local to international brands, hand-crafted cocktails, and premium wines.
They aim to be a go-to spot for entertainment, with trivia and comedy nights, music and even children’s themed brunches. They have spaces large enough for gatherings and celebrations for groups of 20 to over 200. Their attractive patio is dog-friendly – part of the laid-back atmosphere.
Butties of Scotland
21 Panabaker Dr., Ancaster
buttiesofscotland.com
IG: buttiesofscotland
Butties has been open for over a year and we visited soon after it opened since it had the closest thing I could find to a full English breakfast. We weren’t disappointed. The Big Scottish Breakfast came with eggs, peameal bacon, sausage, black pudding, haggis, tatty scone, baked beans, tomatoes, mushrooms and toast. These folks – Rachel and Lee Tait – know what they’re doing and, in part, that’s likely because Lee’s parents have long been in the hospitality business back in Dundee, Scotland. In addition to breakfast, the menu includes handheld pies (made fresh every morning), along with burgers, loaded chips and jacket (baked) potatoes. They say they have amazing customers and that a community is taking shape around the eatery. They also sell various Scottish/British products and candies.
Mist Restaurant & Lounge
1038 Garner Rd. W. #102, Ancaster
mistrestaurant.ca
IG: mistancaster
A newcomer to the Ancaster dining scene, Mist describes itself as a restaurant where elegance meets flavour. The family restaurant offers a menu with Middle Eastern favourites and is 100 per cent halal and alcohol-free.
Ancaster Cheese & Fine Foods
356 Wilson St. E., Ancaster
ancastercheese.ca
IG: ancastercheese
IG: trailscafe_ancaster
Here’s a place with the motto: “Come in as a customer, leave as a friend.” True. One of the most important things you’ll find at Ancaster Cheese is welcoming, attentive service. Oh, and there is also a great collection of fine cheeses. The shop is celebrating its ninth year in operation as a source for all you need for a charcuterie board (try the date night charcuterie box) as well as locally sourced gourmet foods, gift baskets and many curiosities. Owners Arnie Hoffmann and Milap Bedi are excited about their soon-to-open Trails Café in Ancaster.
Caniche French Bakery
346 Wilson St. E., Ancaster
canichebakery.com
IG: canichebakery
Imagine a French-inspired bakery where you can sit and enjoy delicious fresh pastries and coffee/tea. That’s Caniche – where the menu includes croissants, baguettes, breads, cakes, tarts, muffins, butter tarts, pot pies – and so much more. Hand-decorated sugar cookies can be custom ordered. The most amazing treat I purchased was the lemon meringue cheesecake. Divine!
Ios Agora & Bakery
821 Golf Links Rd., Unit 7, Ancaster
iosagora.ca
IG: iosagora
Ios is a beautiful Greek island halfway between Naxos and Santorini. It may bring to mind the impressive restaurant ios Estiatorio & Wine Bar on Upper James Street and now the affiliated bakery/market ios Agora & Bakery. The abundant variety of fresh Greek pastries (not just baklava) is almost overwhelming. Pitas are baked fresh daily and can be purchased with dips that are served at the restaurant. The freezers are full of take-home ingredients and treats. Imported products include olive oils, a wide selection of cheese, honey, pastas, soft drinks and much more.
Castelli Mercato
13 Hatton Dr., Ancaster
castelli-mercato.square.site
IG: castelli.mercato
IG: capri.gelateria
Photo: Diane Galambos Right: Capri nocciola gelato made with hazelnuts from Piemonte, lightly roasted for a sweet delicate flavour.
Photo: Capri Gelateria
Castelli, in Abruzzo, was the birthplace of chef Daniel Mancini’s grandparents, first honoured when he opened Castelli Cucina. Anyone who misses that terrific eatery can recapture some of the experience at Castelli Mercato. It’s noteworthy that this is more of a market, but small indoor and outdoor spaces have been created where you can enjoy wine, cocktails, and antipasto – with some of the food coming right from the garden next to you. Long considered to be among the best pizza in town, Mancini’s pizza dominates what’s on offer, along with baked goods such as bomboloni and cannoli. The freezer is full of take-home dinners, sauces, and arancini and the shelves offer pasta, sauce, olive oil and more. A joyful mercato!
Next to Castelli Mercato is an adorable gelateria also run by the Castelli team. Follow them on Instagram for updates about the creative flavours they create for gelato and sorbet.
Ancaster BIA
shopancastervillage.com
IG: ancaster_village
